12 Oct
Posted by Steve as Finance
I wish to share this simple piece of information that has saved me thousands of dollars over the past several years.
Yesterday my vehicle check engine light turned on and I knew what to do.
I have never owned a new car; I always buy used. I usually buy an American model lease back or rental return with around 25,000 miles on it which saves me $10,000 – $20,000 on each vehicle purchase, and that allows me to stay out of debt (which my wife and I abhor). The risk is that the factory warranty expires 5,000 – 10,000 miles after purchase, so I could end up with a useless car less than a year after purchase, but that hasn’t happened.
What has happened is the check engine light frequently lights after the vehicle exceeds 50,000 miles. In the past when this happened, I always took the vehicle to a dealership to have them diagnose and fix the problem. I’d have to make inconvenient commuting arrangements since I’d loose the car for 1-2 days, and a repair was required that cost between $500-$2000 dollars. Since I am a mechanical know-nothing, I accepted the dealer’s word, made the repair, and paid the bill. I don’t recall how many times I’ve been through this repetitive cycle, but it’s been often enough to cause me a lot of frustration.
I don’t remember where I learned this, but several years ago, I learned that I didn’t need to go to a dealership or another garage to find out why the check engine light was lit. I didn’t even need to buy any special equipment to find out why it was lit.
Today I take the car to an auto parts store like Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts and tell the guy at the counter that my check engine light is on. He plugs a handheld electronic device into my car, and tells me why it is lit. Several times, it said “emissions problem” – translated – A LOOSE GAS CAP! We tightened the gas cap, reset the light, and it didn’t light again for months. Other times it was a plug misfire, which can be a complete aberration. Again, we reset the light and it didn’t light again for months. A couple times, repairs were required, but at least I walked into the dealership with knowledge, which helped me keep the cost down. With knowledge of the problem, they couldn’t B.S. me.
The best part – it’s something you can do in five minutes that may save you thousands of dollars.
You can also buy yourself your own inexpensive Diagnositc Code Reader.
Check out Amazon’s entire assortment of ODBII Diagnotic Scanners.
To some readers this may be common knowledge, but for those of us that are mechanically challenged, it will save you cash.
163 Responses
Justin H.
October 12th, 2006 at 10:42 am
1You can save yourself the trip and geek out over all kinds of interesting real-time stats and graphs by hooking up a DIY kit like this:
http://www.obddiagnostics.com/
… to your laptop and OBDII port. I’ve used this for years to diagnose check engine lights and sensor problems for everyone I know (great way to get free beer).
peter.klug
October 12th, 2006 at 12:12 pm
2How do you reset the light?
Steve
October 12th, 2006 at 12:23 pm
3The guy with the handheld device can reset it. I think you can also reset it with a combination of pedal pushes and key turns. The exact combination may be in your owners manual or online.
David A. Gutierrez
October 12th, 2006 at 1:20 pm
4Make sure you ask the auto parts store BEFORE you get them to hook up the machine how much they will charge (if anything.)
The local store by me, Strauss Discount Auto, charges $78 just to hook up the device and give you the diagnostics readout. If you choose to repair the car there, they put the $78 towards your repair bill. Otherwise, you just pay $78 to have them hook it up and give you that information.
Long story short, be sure to ask IN ADVANCE if the diagnostics machine hook up is free or if they charge!
matt h
October 12th, 2006 at 1:46 pm
5you can also reset it by unplugging your battery and letting the car sit for awhile (some cars this doesn’t work)
Barry Roberts
October 12th, 2006 at 1:48 pm
6I haven’t had a check engine light since I bought this, but for the price, it claims to do most of what the auto parts store computer does, plus it’s a cool set of guages:
http://scanguage.com
I love mine. Can’t wait to clear my next “Check Engine” light myself!
James
October 12th, 2006 at 2:07 pm
7So when your check engine light comes on and you are out of warranty, is to check the gas cap to make sure that it is on straight, it is clean and you have not filled up your tank with the key on (usually key is left on to listen to the radio). Once that is ruled out, if the light is on solid, it does mean that there is a problem. It COULD be a misfire such as a spark plug or it could be something else. The old stereotype that a dealer is going to feed you b.s. is long since over. From experience I have noticed that people that the idea put into their head that just by hooking up a computer to get the codes out will diagnose the problem for you. These people are wrong to assume this, because the codes tell you what system that the fault is in. From there, to correctly diagnose a vehicle, a manual should be referenced to pinpoint exactly where the problem is coming from. The reason alot of people feel that they are being bs’d by dealers is that a dealer charges a flat fee (same as a plummer or electrician). After seeing appr 15-20+ check engine lights in a week, a technician will start to see common problems that cause this light to come on. Does this mean that he should charge you less because he has a pretty good idea of what is causing the problem and it saves you time by skipping most pinpoint tests and testing this component first? What if you decide that you are going to avoid the dealer b.s. and have Autozone or some other place pull your codes and tell you that a code means you need this without testing and you end up having some other problem with your car that, if not taken care of right away, can cost over a thousand dollars to fix? I guess what I am getting at is that if you want to cut corners and you are successful at it then good for you, but just remember this one thing “You get what you pay for”. My recommendation for you all out there is to get your vehicle diagnosed by the professionals and when they tell you what is wrong, ask for them to explain what is needed and why it is needed and learn a little bit about what you are having repaired on your vehicle.
Nick Helmholdt
October 12th, 2006 at 2:12 pm
8This is good advice. I just took my car in for a check engine light. I paid $88 for the diagnosis and told the dealer not to do the repair (an additional $200) . The car drives fine and the engine light is off. I wish I had known that places like autozone have the same tool.
Jerry Kindall
October 12th, 2006 at 2:14 pm
9An easy way to reset the Check Engine light is to look in your owner’s manual to determine which fuse(s) control the Engine Control Unit (ECU), then pull them for a few minutes.
Freediag
October 12th, 2006 at 3:03 pm
10freediag.sourceforge.net is an Open Source/Free Software project that provides diagnostic tools for both Linux and Windows.
EKM
October 12th, 2006 at 3:16 pm
11“lose” not “loose,” first instance only.
I’m trying to convince my gf to get a used car, and sell her current vehicle which she still owes money on. This is a great bit of information.
Toy Yoda
October 12th, 2006 at 3:19 pm
12“I usually buy an American model. . .”
There’s your problem right there.
Cecil Hartsfield
October 12th, 2006 at 3:36 pm
13Today’s vehicles are not repaired simply with “checking the gas cap” or replacing a spark plug. I work in a shop and these are a few of the codes I ran across just this afternoon.
P1870-Transmission Component Slipping
P0756-Shift Solenoid B Stuck Off
P1138-Heated A/F Sensor 1, Bank 2, Rich
P1780-Traction Control System Out of Range
P0325-Knock Sensor Bank 1 Circuit Fault
P1627-PCM A/D Conversion Malfuction
And guess what, none of these can be fixed with tightening the fuel cap or a spark plug.
This is just a sample of what a Tech runs across on any given day. The senario above is about as true as “Ctrl-Alt-Delete” will take care of all your computer problems. The main difference is you can replace a computer for $500-$1000, all the cars I like start north of $20K and go up from there. If you take care of your car….it will take care of you..most of the time.
Mike Patterson
October 12th, 2006 at 4:15 pm
14I own a 2006 Yukon and 2001 Conv. Corvette. I maintain them and have a great mechanic for the Vette which is out of warranty. The Yukon has not needed service and is covered for 5yrs/50K. I also have “whoopie car”; a 1991 Lincoln Towncar I picked up for $900. It has a 403 engine and runs great. The check engine light was on for who knows how long and was on when I bought it. I took it to my vette mechanic and he said the ‘EGR valve, other emissions crap like O2 sensors were neededing replacing as well as the intake manifold needed flushing. Well, it was not going to pass inspection (TX-Check Engine light on -No Pass) and the repairs were going to be about $650. So, I gave him $50 cash to cut the wire to the CE light and got the Lincoln inspected. It runs fine, and I my all is well.
Brian
October 12th, 2006 at 4:19 pm
15Last time I looked Wal-Mart had a Computer to plug into any 1996 and older car for $68. gave you a readout and a book to look it up. Not sure about the reset but I would think so.
Stevie D.
October 12th, 2006 at 4:26 pm
16All the controversy aside, I think having it checked for free (which I think was your point) is a good idea. Then you have information and options. I’m sure many dealers and shops are honest and skilled, but knowing the which codes you’ve got can’t hurt.
chaosgone
October 12th, 2006 at 4:34 pm
17Thinkgeek sells the ScanGauge II Automotive Computer for $170, which will read engine trouble codes and can reset the “check engine” light.
http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/electronic/8426/
JimC
October 12th, 2006 at 5:44 pm
18The Honda manuals say how to reset the check engine light: hold the trip reset button in while turning the ignition on till the dash indicators come on (not all the way to start). Keep holding it in until the CE light goes off. Funny thing: some cars (like Hondas) turn the light on for “regular maint.” at 20K, 60K and 100K miles. If there is a real problem, the light will come back on after you reset it.
None of this is rocket science, all you need to do is RTFM. I guarantee you, reading the car manual will be a couple hours well invested.
PS: I seem to remember this working on another car I had as well (which must have been a Saab or VW). It is currently not working on my Toyota though.
PPS: Most of the time on a Saab or VW, it means: “Somethine else expensive and a PITA to fix is broken. Wait till a few more things break, and then go in for your semi-annual trip to the auto repair and bend over.”
charlton
October 12th, 2006 at 6:08 pm
19you can actually pick up a relatively cheap obd II reader that displays the problem @ http://www.canobd2.com/tool/3100c.asp thats the one i have its an awesome tool and any time a friend has a light come on you can check it
Killfile
October 12th, 2006 at 7:38 pm
20I own a Volvo V70. I’ve got a check engine light on. I ran it by a local muffler shop which, for $40, hooked me up to the diagnostic system and told me that I had an oxygen sensor that had tripped the engine light. Now, Volvo decided at some point that it needed to veritably stew the engine with Oxygen sensors and from time to time, especially in cold weather, they get all twitchy and start reporting bad data to the system.
So I had them turn it off. Next winter, like clockwork, the light came on again. Now I’m not going to throw down $40 to get the light turned off. I know what the problem is and it’s not going to go away short of a major engine repair to replace a sensor that serves no puropse save to turn that light on.
So now I have a bit of black electrical tape over the light. Problem solved.
Anna
October 12th, 2006 at 8:12 pm
21I am 64 years old and have been driving since I was 16. I have never had a “check engine light” come on. Am I missing something?
Heath
October 12th, 2006 at 8:13 pm
22Another way to fix this is to stick a piece of electrical tape over your engine light.
Problem solved!
Derek
October 12th, 2006 at 10:12 pm
23Another Trick is to disconnect the battery to reset the computer. I’ve done this to reset my auto 4wd on a chevy vehicle when it got messed up in the cold. I also had my gas lines freeze up one time and it stopped reading a sensor because it gave an error (it was froze) when I got it thawed out, the car barely would pull itself. I reset it and it ran perfect and never had the problem again. So if you get stuck you can always try the disconnecting the battery.
Mike Patterson, too
October 12th, 2006 at 11:06 pm
24For the other Mike Patterson (small world!): The tech performing the inspection is -supposed- to cycle the ignition key and watch the lights to make sure the CE light is functional before doing the OBD or sensor tests. I know they do it around here.
Mike
some guy
October 13th, 2006 at 4:20 am
25Wal Mart sells the hand held tester thingie for about $100 get the read out and reset it you can also USB it to your computer to get more info
but Heath has the best answer
Randy
October 13th, 2006 at 4:30 am
26And the next time you have a cancerous legion growing on your skin you can skip the costly doctor bills and slap a band-aid over it. Now that you don’t see the problem it is therefore fixed and life is dandy once more.
Jasmine
October 13th, 2006 at 10:39 am
27Actually, the best place to start is to get a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. Any used car owner should get one of these first thing after buying the car. Read the sections about maintenance and be sure to do everything they list. Many of these manuals will tell you how to read the ECU trouble codes without any special equipment. Subarus can be made to “blink” the codes on the dashboard. It takes a few minutes to read the codes if you have multiple errors, but it requires no special equipment. Other cars have similar procedures, and all cars have a method of resetting the check light without hooking up any extra equipment. However, you need the Haynes manual to figure it out… it’s like trying to guess the cheat codes on a game… it’s not gonna happen by accident. In the Subaru, it was something like ‘turn the key on, push the gas to the floor for 5 seconds, then start the car and drive for 30 seconds… something like that.
The important thing to realise from the article is that having the check engine light come on doesn’t ALWAYS mean you should check the engine. Sometimes the problem is somewhere else. Computers monitor all kinds of signals from various sensors all over the car. Some of the sensor readings are used to adjust other activities in the car, like the throttle-position sensor, which tells the computer whether you want to accelerate or not, and adjusts the fuel flow accordingly. Some sensors seem to be monitoring completely worthless things.
However, most computer-indicated problems are basically the computer complaining about something that happened once and never happened again, like the spark plug misfiring. A lot of things can cause that and the computer stores that error and warns you about it even though it’s not happening repeatedly. In addition to that, sensors go bad all the time, making the computer think there is an error in the system, when in reality the system is functioning fine, the computer just can’t see it. I currently have a bad power-steering fluid pressure sensor on my RX-7, and it causes the computer to beep at me, but otherwise the car functions fine.
Moral of the story… check engine light doesn’t mean much. You need to diagnose the problem, and don’t just assume that the light means a trip to the dealer. Knowing a little about your car can save you a ton of money.
Mike B.
October 13th, 2006 at 12:59 pm
28If you google your car and “check engine light” often times you’ll find ways to check the trouble codes without the expensive diagnostic equipment. I found a forum for my (long since gone) Nissan Altima that told me exactly where the computer was (behind the radio on the driver’s side), how to check the code (there’s a plastic adjustment screw that you turn to one side or the other) and then how to reset the light. I found that I had a bad Idle Air Controller without spending several hundred dollars in diagnostic services.
Oh, and JimC, that’s not the check engine light that gets reset by holding the trip button on the ODO. That’s the Maintenance Required light. There’s a seperate Check Engine light, that you have to take to the mechanic to get reset.
David
October 13th, 2006 at 2:34 pm
29Don’t know about other cars, but on my Sprinter disconnecting the battery means re-entering the activation code on the stereo. Much easier the RTFM and do the switch fiddle.
Kate
October 15th, 2006 at 10:14 am
30Every soccer mom in the entire world who uses a mini van to ferry her kids around should read this post.
If you think mechanics were BS’ing you, imagine being a WOMAN and taking your car in. Thanks Steve, I think you just saved the entire driving public thousands.
Clicked : Making sense with loose change
October 16th, 2006 at 10:00 pm
31[...] Posted: Monday, October 16, 2006 9:51 PM by Will Femia The Loose Change guys versus the Popular Mechanics guys. In case you’re not familiar, Loose Change is a video that argues that 9/11 did not happen the way the story is told in popular media. Popular Mechanics published a debunking of many of the points of the 9/11 conspiracy theorists. It’s really fascinating to see them debate in person. The reasoning style of the 9/11 guys is pretty fascinating in itself. They don’t seem as interested in answering questions as they are about making sense of questions. They ask a lot of “If A is true, then why B?” questions. A and B don’t necessarily answer each other, but when put together they imply an answer. Speaking of arguing with 9/11 doubters here’s South Park’s take. Speaking of online debates, “The attempts to rubbish the Lancet study on the massive Iraqi death toll are devious hack-work.” Related: How many Iraqi civilians have died as a result of the war? Speaking of fighting about the war, The War of the Words – a multi-part mocumentary about the 101st Fighting Keyboarders. This doesn’t really have any connection to North Korean weapons testing, but since the news is talking about testing explosives, I clicked this video of an underwater detonation. MADD’s new DWI awareness posters are a smash Speaking of broken cars, What to do when Your Vehicle Check Engine Light Turns On and the Warranty has Expired – Worth reading through the comments, lots of information there. I recently changed my own brakes and there are few things as satisfying as doing your own vehicle maintenance. At the same time there are few feelings as helpless as handing your vehicle to someone only to be charged a huge amount of money for something you don’t understand. Forget pumpkin carving, check out pumpkin sculpture. Mobile clubbing – I really like the idea of a crowded dance floor that’s silent except for the shuffle of dancing feet. The Improv Everywhere folks have done flashmob-ish stunts with synchronized iPods. I love a game in a difference language. I can’t tell if this one is finite or if I just can’t get past the space level. “Woot.com is an online store and community that focuses on selling cool stuff cheap.” The amazing YouTube tools collection Apparently there’s been a hitch in the Yahoo time capsule thing. [...]
Greg
October 17th, 2006 at 6:11 am
32Actron OBD II Autoscanner sells at AutoZone for about $50.
John
October 17th, 2006 at 9:09 am
33Older Jeep Cherokee’s (I have a 1996) will allow you to determine the engine fault code without a reader, it will flash the fault codes to you from the check engine light itself. Without starting the engine, turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF and ON within 5 seconds. The CHECK ENGINE light on the dash will begin to flash. If any trouble codes are stored in the PCM memory, the CHECK ENGINE light will flash the number of the first digit, pause and flash the number of the second digit. For example, Code 23, air temperature sensor circuit would be indicated by two flashes, pause three flashes. A long pause will appear between individual codes if more than one code is present. Carefully observe the flashes and record the exact code number(s) onto paper.After the stored codes have been indicated (or if everything in the self diagnosis system is functioning properly), the CHECK ENGINE light will flash a Code 55. If the ignition key is turned OFF during the code extraction process and possibly turned back ON, the self diagnostic system will automatically invalidate the procedure and must be restarted. The codes are:
11 Ignition
13 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Vacuum
14 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Electrical
15 Distance sensor or circuit
17 Engine running too cool
21 Oxygen sensor or circuit
22 Coolant temperature sensor or circuit
23 MAT sensor or circuit
24 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) sensor or circuit
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) circuit
27 Fuel injector control
31 EVAP solenoid or circuit
33 Air conditioning clutch relay
41 Alternator field
42 Automatic shutdown relay
44 Battery temperature sensor
46 Battery over voltage
47 Battery under voltage
51 Oxygen sensor – lean condition
52 Oxygen sensor – rich condition
53 Internal engine controller fault
54 Distributor sync pickup
55 End of Code output
62 Emissions Maintenance Reminder (EMR) mileage accumulator
63 Controller failure EEPROM write denied
PJN
October 17th, 2006 at 3:26 pm
34Why can not manufactures replace the check engine light with a screen that displays a number? Then the owner could look up that number on the internet to see what is causing the problem.
Brock
October 18th, 2006 at 1:29 am
35I own a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer with 47k miles. About 3k miles ago the engine suddenly started shaking (normally it’s a very smooth engine) and the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer and it was a busted coil on one of the cylinders. Ok, I couldn’t fix that one.
About a month later the check engine light came on again. There was not obviously anything wrong with the engine. I thought “Oh crap, not again.” I dropped by the dealer and they couldn’t fit me in that day, so I drove on my way to some errands. Along the way I stopped for gas and noticed that the gas cap was hanging loose (no idea how that happened, as I’m always good about putting it back on). I remembered that the check engine light could turn on due to a loose gas cap, so I breathed a sigh of relief, tightened the gas cap, turned on my car, and…. the light stayed on. Oh crap.
But I read through the manual and it says that it can take a while for the light to turn off after you correct the problem. About half a tank later, it went off and I breathed a second sigh of relief.
Another interesting tip from the manual was that if the light is solid (as it was with the gas cap problem), it’s an emissions control problem and no immediate service is necessary, but if it lasts for more than a couple of tanks of gas, it should be serviced. If the light is flashing (as it was for the coil problem) then there’s a bigger problem and it should be serviced right away. I’m not sure if this rule applies to all GM vehicles, but if your check engine light comes on, your first step should ALWAYS be to read the manual. It could save you some time and worry.
Rick
October 21st, 2006 at 9:16 pm
36Hi Everybody,
I am an ASE certified Technician. I have been an auto mechanic since 1978. I received an honorable mention award for my test scores during re-certification and i attend every seminar available in my area. That said I have some remarks and advice for you. Motor vehicles before 1996 and after 1990 used what is called OBDI. What OBDI does is monitor basic emission sensors,ie:O2, EGR valve, etc. After 1996 ALL manufacturers were required to use OBDII. OBDII monitors almost every system on your vehicle.From the air tempurature entering your engine, to whether your ECM is receiving a signal to turn your A/C on. All of these systems fall into the category of “ENGINE PERFORMANCE”
Now let me address some of your comments.Jim C, what you are resetting is the “Maintenance Required” light, very big difference, check your owners manual. Mike Patterson, 91 Lincoln Town Car, it was possible to disconnect the battery for 1 minute and reset the CE light, not anymore. Killfile, your V70 has 4 O2 sensors just like every other OBDII vehicle, they monitor exhaust emissions and adjust engine parameters through the ECM. There are 2 in front of the catalytic converters and 2 behind them to give the ECM comparison data. Brock, Yes, the light will go off if your gas cap is loose , but it had nothing to do with how much fuel you used, your vehicle went through a required number of drive cycles. Turning on the truck, driving and shutting it down is 1 drive cycle. Jerry Kindall and everyone else that wants to disconnect the battery or pull a fuse, if you cut power to the ECM it has to go through a re-learn procedure. This is not your home PC. It monitors a moving object in a hostile environment, it needs constant data for good performance. The re-learn procedure can take up to 40 drive cylces, during that period you will lose gas mileage and performance. It will be like your home PC has 30 different spyware infections. Know what I mean?Jasmine, you are the kind of person, judging from your comment, that if you went a little bit further in your research would have nailed it. be positive that you are using the correct light reset procedure,it sounds like the GM oil light reset one. Like I said all of these sensors fall into the ENGINE PERFORMANCE category. Jas, what is a worthless sensor? James….thank you for a little piece of mind. You made the most sense of this. You can go to Auto Zone and have them check the code and if it is an EVAP leak,try and put the gas cap on tighter,but what if it comes back on? Now what? DTC P0440 EVAP LEAK. posible causes gas cap, damages vacuum hose,EGR valve,EGR VSV valve,broken wire in circuit. All possible causes,and the car ran….badly. OBDII cars use what is called LIMP MODE, if there is a serious problem the vehicle will go into limp mode so it can be driven till repaired. THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO ALL PROBLEMS. I hope I’ve helped a bit,goood luck to all of you and hopefully you won’t have to see any of my colleagues for anything serious.
AJ Wallnutz
November 2nd, 2006 at 5:22 pm
37Codes will only “point” you in the direction of a root cause. Everyone is always looking for a 10 minute solution. Often, there is a related and possibly serious/dangerous issue that needs to be taken care of when the CE light comes on. Sometimes not correcting the cheap problem up front will cost you a lot more in the long run.
No offense to people in the retail business, but automobiles are generally not their area of expertise. The impatient customers that expect years of automobile knowledge (for $7/hr salary) out of them are the ones that make their job very challenging. They (like most of us) are in no position to safely diagnose a CE light. It would be insane to be confident your vehicle is ok because the light no longer comes on thanks to a quick-fix that the scanner said needed to be done.
If you want to do some “home-work” before talking to a technician, it’s not a bad idea. Just do not be satisfied with a quick-fix. That may be all that is needed, but you won’t find that out at Auto Zone. While there are plenty of crooked people out there, do not assume some one is ripping you off just because they work for a dealer or a large shop.
And to Kate (the self-proclaimed soccer mom): Would you like school bus drivers to talk to the people at Auto Zone to see if the bus is safe enough to haul 72 children? I’m glad you are not responsible for my life. I just hope I’m not driving anywhere near you and your mini-van.
Roman
November 7th, 2006 at 2:30 am
38Steve said: “I usually buy an American model lease back or rental return with around 25,000 miles on it which saves me $10,000 – $20,000 on each vehicle purchase”
What’s the original price? Or how much do you save in percent?
Roman
November 8th, 2006 at 2:58 am
39Toy Yoda said:
““I usually buy an American model. . .”
There’s your problem right there.”
I have a Honda Accord ’98 with slightly more than 50K miles on it, and the check engine light is on too. Changing the gas tank cap didn’t help.
Drew
November 30th, 2006 at 8:12 am
40Dude, wtf…80 bucks..
in your area if there is a AutoZone or AdvanceAuto Parts..take it there and they will check it for free. Im 17 years old, and i have the same car and i have had it come on before and all you have to do is take it there and they check it and they tell you some codes..then what you can do if you wish is take it home and look up on the internet the codes and it will tell you if a sensor is bad or if something is leaking or what…but do not pay any one any thing until your actually getting the problem fixed.
Crystal
November 30th, 2006 at 7:18 pm
41If you disconnect the battery will you lose the trouble codes, and if so is there any way to get them back?
Sean
December 12th, 2006 at 4:10 pm
42I have a 1999 Toyota Camry(4 Cyl.) with 102K miles. My check engine light came on about 3 months ago, and finally I took it to a Toyota dealer yesterday. I was charged $91`for diagnosis and it came back with a code of P0401– insufficient EGR flow was the readout. Dealer wanted $460 plus dollars for fixing the problem which I thought was very high. I declined to carry out the repairs and googled the code and found many sites, including this one, with helpful hints.
I took it to AutoZone and asked to borrow their scanner to erase the code. They require a $170 dollar deposit to loan one. Anyways, I read the code again and it matched what the dealer had indicated. I erased the code and have done a few trips since then and so far the check engine light has not come back on. Keeping my fingers crossed as I need to do smog check in feb. 2008. I wish I had come across this site before going to the dealer.
kai
January 1st, 2007 at 10:55 pm
43I had my mechanic do the CE diagnostic on my 98 accord v6, 93k mi. just had 90k tune up at dealer.
i have had the light on for about 3 weeks. i was told that the problem was catalyst efficient low bank 1, that my cataylyst converter needed to be replaced. my mechanic wanted to charge me 500+ for the part, honda’s cost 800.
I felt 500+ was too much, so i called around i got midas to replace the cc, they charged me 350 installed. (installed 12/31/06)
So i went back to my mechanic to get it reset, he does it. i goes after for about 24 hrs and 30 some mi. then sunday afternoon CE got lit again.
what do i do?
i will be going to Azo to get the codes pulled. maybe the o2 sensor is bad? any advice would be greatly appreciated.
gumball99@gmail.com
Keith
January 31st, 2007 at 12:28 pm
44Wow, this is great news. My check engine light came on, and there’s nothing wrong with the car from what I can tell in terms of performance, speed, etc. I know where I’m going after work!
hollywood
February 14th, 2007 at 8:41 pm
45my engine light turned 0n t0day a few min after i put gas. it was als0 sn0wing here and the r0ad was a mess. im sure the car is in g00d c0nditi0n! its a h0nda accord 2003 with 35000 miles. any sugestion
Martez
March 5th, 2007 at 12:43 pm
46Thanks guys for being here.
I have a 1994 Toyota Camry LE . The wiring harness was replaced as a result of a small fire. Now there is no fire going to the starter, and when depressing the gas petal nothing happens. I have to start the vehicle by using a wire from the starter to the positive post on the battery. I was told that resetting the computer would solve this issue. is this correct? How does one reset the computer? I have already removed the battery terminals, still to no avail.
Thanks guys.
BOB
March 18th, 2007 at 6:16 pm
47I HAVE A 2006 JEEP G CHEROKEE. THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS THE CAR DOESNT LIKE WINTER GAS. AND LIGHT SHOULD SHUT OFF AFTER 6 DRIVING CYCLES AFTER THE WINTER GAS IS REPLACED BY SUMMER GAS. I EXPERIMENTED BY UPGRADING THE FUEL TO MIDGRADE AND IT SEEMED TO HELP. I THEN WENT BACK TO LOW GRADE GAS. I STARTED LOOKING FOR A PATTERN. ONCE I REALIZED IT CAME ON WHEN I USED MOBIL GAS. I HAD DISCOVERED THIS WHEN I USED CHEVRON HABITUALLY THEN WAS FORCED TO USE MOBIL ONE DAY. OVER THE LAST FEW MONTHS I TEST THIS AND FIND THAT THE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN I USE MOBIL. IT ALSO COMES ON IN COLD WEATHER. BUT IT ALWAYS EVENTUALLY SHUTS OFF.
Advice That Potentialy Saved Me Thousands « Stop Playing House
March 31st, 2007 at 10:21 am
48[...] March 31st, 2007 I just paid off my 97 Toyota Camry, that I bought used and recently had a few thousand dollars worth of work put into it to ensure me that it would last beyond my goal of 300,000 miles. So yesterday when my Check Engine light came on I knew I wouldn’t be able to sleep until I got it fixed. The car was still running the same, and previously I had paid my mechanic to fix the problem which usually resulted in a faulty O2 sensor. Luckily my mechanic was booked this weekend. When I came home a google search for “My check engine light came on, Toyota Camry” brought me across Seve Olson’s blog. Following his advice and finding it to be most relevant to my situation, my problem was diagnosed and fixed within thirty minutes at the low cost of zero dollars. [...]
ThoTran
April 2nd, 2007 at 6:56 am
49My 2002 Camry V4 with 100K mile on had a CE light on once, I checked gas cap as many suggested to no result. I went to AutoZone and got a FREE read. The code said ‘Emmision Control’. After checking the filters, I replaced the dirty filter ($25) inside the glove compartment. This filter I believe has nothing to do with engine, just filter the air passenger breathe inside the car. The CE light went off and stayed off after that. Hope this might help somebody.
Fred
April 6th, 2007 at 10:49 am
50Hey, i have a 2001 neon with 64,000 miles and my check engine light came on 5 days ago. So far am not plannin on doing anything, because the light is not blinkin, so its not a real problem. My dad has a 2003 pathfinder and his light comes on every month and two and its been going on for 2 years now and he just ignores it and so far no problems.
PS. my car has been ruuning better than ever, so until that changes am not blowin money on anything stupid. If your guys check engine light comes DONT run/drive to the repair shop.
yemi
April 20th, 2007 at 11:10 am
51THANKS GUYS, I JUST BOUHGT A HONDA ACCORD 2000 WITH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON, SO I WOULD GENERALLY TRY EVERYTHING YOU ALL HAVE MENTIONED.
Raj Menon
April 23rd, 2007 at 5:20 pm
52Today morning, i woke up with the CEL nightmare! (and my first encounter with this irritating ‘What if’)
I read all the comments on this site and quite a few others including inputs from the Haynes Manual for the Corolla 2000.
This is what I did and it worked to get rid of the Check Engine Light(with my peace of mind intact):
a) Got the error code after the free diagnosis at Autozone(friendly guys at rockaway, NJ). Found that it was: P0171 i.e Fuel injection system lean, in layman’s terms or getting it down to absolute dummy terms for folks like me -> Clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor in most cases.(you could google for this sensor to learn abt what power this lil thing wields!)
b) Bought the best recommended sensor cleaner for this class -> CRC Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner, a product from CRC industries. You can get this for 7 $ from Pepboys
c) Locate the sensor in the car. Disconnect the sensor’s electricals, remove the 2 screws(a normal star crewdriver is good enuf) and release the sensor from the air filter housing
d) Spray the cleaner 10-15 times on all sides, especially on the hot-wire sensing element and the other connectors. Once its cleaned, reinstall the sensor back once its dried(the fluid evaporates pretty fast)
e) Start the engine and drive around for some time. You’ll already find an improved response from the engine.
f) Reset the code information from the computer memory by removing the negative cable of the battery.
In my case, the CEL vanished as i was driving the car after re-installing the filter. My friend who did the same thing for his Jetta got the CEL cleared after removing the negative cable in the battery.
Wear Gloves, Be Safe and best of Luck!
Larry
April 24th, 2007 at 3:21 pm
53It is never easy to understand what might be causing the check engine light to come on. The only thing that you can say for sure until the vehicle is diagnosed with a scan tool or code reader is that the OBD2 system has detected a fault that may cause the vehicle’s emissions to increase.
For more technical information on this subject, see the following pages:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/mil.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/obd2help/
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/cm70336.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/warning_lights.htm
Anpadh
April 27th, 2007 at 8:23 am
54I own a Toyota Camry 2000. Bought it used in September 2006. No problems so far, except Check Engine Light came on yesterday. Wondering if it could be engine oil or something else. Plan to hit Auto Zone tomorrow as many here have suggested but just wondered if anyone has any input before I do that. Thanks!
Anpadh
April 28th, 2007 at 6:43 am
55Considering that I have not received any response in the last 24 hours, it seems nobody really cares about this topic any more, but I will still go ahead and say that after I added two quarts of oil the Check Engine Light went away. It took 24 hours for the light to go off.
Here’s an interesting thing I found out about the engine oil dip-stick. It is a short stick with a yellow handle that is almost hidden below the engine, not the long, unmarked one in front, that looks like it is the engine oil dipstick.
GRANNY
May 8th, 2007 at 6:30 pm
56THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS ON CHECK ENGINE. I WILL BE TRYING THIS ON TOMORROW.ALSO MY CAR FEELS LIKE IT IS SHIFTING GEARS WHEN I AM DRIVING I WENT TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP AND THEY COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG AND IT HAS PLENTY OF FLUID IN IT WHAT IS A GIRL TO DO?
patrick
May 9th, 2007 at 4:07 am
57Anpadh, Is your camry a six cylinder or four?
Anpadh
May 9th, 2007 at 1:16 pm
58Patrick,
To be perfectly honest, I am not 100% sure but I believe it my Camry is 4-cylinder. My 2 main reasons for this belief: (1). I get 25 mpg in the city. (2) My car does not accelerate as smoothly or as quckly as 6-cyl. cars usually do.
d v eslick
June 15th, 2007 at 5:55 pm
59Briefly, this is my experience with the ‘check engine light’ on my Miata. I had just purchased a ’94 Miata and added a car bra to cover the blemished fiberglass front end. A short while thereafter the dreaded ‘check engine ‘ indicator came on. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that it was a code 17 = ‘heated oxygen censor’. As soon as I removed the Car Bra the code 17 was removed.
BrutalB83
June 16th, 2007 at 3:20 pm
60“To be perfectly honest, I am not 100% sure but I believe it my Camry is 4-cylinder.”
You can’t tell whether it’s a four or six cylinder just by looking at the damn thing???
Anpadh
June 18th, 2007 at 5:06 am
61I suppose I could tell if I ever bothered to look at the damn thing. However, pretty much anything that is under the hood or between the wheels is something I choose not to mess with at all. I keep my car clean, inside and out and I look at the lights on the dashboard — and that’s it.
jay
July 11th, 2007 at 8:04 pm
62Dear Anpadh,
All you need to do to find out whether your ride is V4 or V6, pop the hood and count how many wires are on your engine. If you see 4, then is 4 cylinder, if its 6, its 5 cylinder.
Anpadh
July 12th, 2007 at 7:51 am
63Jay,
Thanks for the tip. I will try to do that when I pop the hood to re-fill the wiper fluid. One tip I would like to pass on, from a mechanic, is that if the check engine light starts blinking, stop immediatey and take it to a mechanic. But if it is steady, and you know that you have sufficient engine oil and other fluids, all taken care of, you can afford to ignore the light until you are ready to take the car for service, in a month or two. My check engine light has been going on and off the last two months. I’ve taken it to more than one mechanic and they all say to ignore it, as everything seems OK.
Bill Hipple
July 19th, 2007 at 3:49 pm
642001 SAAb P3 CE lite comes on. Diagnosis reads PO0300. Been to Saav mechanic three times. Twice replaced the ignition coil set $264 + labor(all four in a unit). After 20-30 miles CE light returns. Went back today, mech reset CE. Drove off, stopped for lunch, CE light returns. This is driving me up the wall. If there is a random misfire how can it be located?
Brenda
July 31st, 2007 at 10:35 am
651992 Nissan Maxim 220180 check engine light comes on and off any ideas?It has been very well maintained.
Anpadh
July 31st, 2007 at 3:45 pm
66Brenda,
The same thing used to happen to my car. What happened in my case was that the water pump was broken and the timing belt was frayed. It cost me about $500 to get those problems fixed (parts and labor included). Now, the Check Engine Light does not come and go. Your car may have a different problem. I suggest that you go to some place like Pep Boys and have the car properly analyzed. I believe Pep Boys does the analysis for free.
Nan
August 10th, 2007 at 7:00 pm
67well, after reading all of these and knowing I have a PO440 code reading on my ses light (yep, free from Autozone) and worrying about how much this will cost me to fix since my warranty is up (2003 TB), I’m going to bite the bullet and take my baby to the doc (but NOT a dealer). I will gladly pay the $80-100 for a full diagnostic and hope for the best. I’ve replaced the gas cap, air filter and fuel filter because they needed it. Now I’m hoping it’s a sensor and not the thingy in the gas tank that causes leaks that maybe a recall but I’m not holding my breath. yep, time to stop being a diehard “buy American” but I sure hate jap cars style. they have slanted tail lights . . .
mgitchell
August 13th, 2007 at 1:56 pm
68Thanks for sharing this experience. After freaking out a little when the check engine light went on in our barely driven truck, I sent my Hubby to Schucks to get it hooked up to their testing kit. They did it gladly and determined that it was a leaky gas cap. Which gave him the perfect excuse to replace with a locking gas cap, even though their prices have gone up due to high gas prices. But it saved us so much in comparison to taking it to a dealer, time AND money.
Maity
August 28th, 2007 at 12:31 pm
69My hyundai sonata (64K miles) CEL was on due to Gas cap not being tight enough (TIght upto Three click sound). Surprisingly after filling up for 100 of times, this mistake can happen and CEL can light up. Amazing!
Thanks to AUTOZONE who detected it for FREE.
BIGMIKE
September 1st, 2007 at 10:17 am
70I have a 2001 Nissan XTerra and the check engine light comes on periodically. It has never been anything other than the gas cap being put on too loosely. It had not happened in a while, so today I forgot and took the car to a repair shop. They tried to sell me a “knock sensor”for $700 (parts and labor). That was enough to jog my memory about the whole gas cap thing. So, I told them to give me an oil change and a new gas cap. I will fill it up with gas again and see if the light comes off with the new gas cap screwed on tightly.
Is there any real danger to driving around for a few days with a faulty “knock sensor,” in case this is not a scam??
marcy
September 6th, 2007 at 1:24 pm
71Check engine light 96 Grand Jeep Cherokee and when I did when another person had same car/same problem…the cruise light came on, but NO code numbers.
I don’t use Cruise Control…should I worry?
Marcy
Christy
October 21st, 2007 at 1:18 pm
72I recently had the check engine light come on in my 2003 Toyota Tundra. After researching online, I went to Autozone. They said California does not allow them to scan for codes, but I could do it myself using their equipment if I put down a fully refundable deposit. I did this, used the scanner myself (which was very easy) and found a code #. The Autozone folks looked up the code and printed out a list of possible causes (leaking gas cap was one). While deciding what to do, I filled the gas tank and lo and behold, the light went out. Apparently, I had previously let the gas tank get too empty which triggered the check engine light. I had read about this happening to others. Cost of solving the problem–one tank of gas. Hope this helps someone else.
Dave
November 6th, 2007 at 7:15 am
73I have a 96 Nissan Altima that refuses to pass all of the readiness tests. There is no check engine light, it just won’t get ready. The ones that won’t get ready are: 02 sensor, Catalyst, and EGR system. To pass emissions, all of the codes but two must be ready, and since I have three not readies, it won’t pass. We’ve driven it well over 100 miles over several days, and still won’t get ready. On my Saturn I had this same problem and it turned out to be a bad coolant temperature sensor. But I’m at a loss on this Altima. Any suggestions?
Jeff O
November 24th, 2007 at 3:25 pm
74I changed the battery in my ’01 Lexus RX300 this morning and filled up the tank with gas this afternoon. About 4pm, I went out to run an errand and noticed the Check Engine and VSC lights were on. After googling check engine light and reading what all of you have written above, I disconnected the battery and made sure the gas cap was tight. For good measure, I checked to see if any vacuum hoses near the battery had been disconnected in my zeal to get the old battery out and the new one in. When I reconnected the battery, the lights were reset and have not come on again. Pretty sure it’s “fixed”, but I’ll keep my eyes on the idiot lights for the next few days. Thank all of you who have shared your knowledge here.
Ganesh Jothi
December 22nd, 2007 at 10:07 am
75Hi,
Thank you very much for your suggestion. It really worked for me and saved my money..
Thanks again!!!
sangeetha
December 31st, 2007 at 2:35 pm
76Please tell me how to disconnect battery, so that check engine light resets.
thank you so much
Natalie Lozano
January 9th, 2008 at 12:42 pm
77Ok thatis great information. But part of our problem is how do you resetr the engine loght. I have a 2002 sl1 saturn. And I don’t know where to find it’s reset. If you have any idea I would appreciate it thanks.
Anpadh
January 12th, 2008 at 12:22 pm
78I kept getting different things fixed on my car and the light kept goign off and then returning a few weeks later. Last month, a mechanic who checked out my car thoroughly told me that the light was over-sensitive. Apparently, one of the reasons it comes on has nothing to do with the engine but with the government’s anti-emission laws. If the EGR valve is even slightly off, the light comes on and stays on forever. Usually, the EGR valve itself is fine but the VSV (Vacuum Seal Valve) needs replacement. For my 2000 Camry, that means about $120 ($75 for the valve itself and the rest for labor, taxes, etc). INterestingly, however, the EGR and VSV do not affect performance in any way. And the EGR tends to last 12 to 15 years. Most mechanics tell you to replace the EGR and then, a couple of months later will tell you to replace the VSV too. Thte total cost comes to (for me) about $500 and all of it is 100% unnecessary.
Wind Song
January 16th, 2008 at 3:46 pm
79This is a great site and I have learned some very helpful hints and insights, especially about having the CEL code checked out at the auto parts store and to ask upfront how much it would cost. I too, have a story about CE lights to tell:
I have a 2002 Corolla. In August 2007, the yellow CEL came on the night before I had to drive back to San Diego from Oakland, CA. It was drizzling. I took the car to a mechanic as I did not want to be stranded on the freeway. Mechanic said it was the catalytic converter, but couldn’t get the parts until Monday (two days later). He assured me that it was safe to drive back to SD and cleared the code. I paid him $35. Drove back to SD without incident. In October, I finally took the car to have the catalytic converter replaced.
The mechanic asked me why I thought I needed to have the catalytic converter replaced. I told him what happened. He asked me what the code was which I did not have. After learning the car only had about 90,000 miles, this mechanic said it couldn’t not be the catalytic converter. He hooked the car up to the analyzer but no code came up. He told me to bring the car back if the CEL comes on again. I didn’t have to pay him anything, which was was grateful.
In November, I took the car to the dealer for a 90,000 mile maintenance. The car was fine. Paid $350 for routine maintenance stuff. They hooked the car up to the analyzer too, and again, no code came up. Two weeks ago, the solid yellow CEL came on again, in Oakland. It was also drizzling. I added one quart of motor oil and have been driving the car with the CEL on, but I worry that it may make matters worse by ignoring it.
The dealer charges $90 and 1st mechanic charged me $35 just to check it out. Worse yet, I don’t want to pay hundreds of dollars to have the wrong part replaced. I would have been very upset if I had wrongly replaced the catalytic converter. After this experience, how do I know whatever the next mechanic told me is the right thing to do? After reading all the helpful posting on this site, I cleaned the gas cap, making sure it was straight and tight, filled the gas tank, but solid CEL is still on. I called Kragan, but they only sell the scanners. Here’s my plan:
1. Will call Autozone and see if they can pull the code for me, or
2. Borrow the scanner and do it myself (since I live in CA, they might not pull it), which I really don’t know how, but hopefully Autozone will offer some assistance.
3. Read the owners manuals.
4. Check all fluid levels and do a general inspection under the hood.
Any other suggestions?
Both times, the CEL came on in Oakland when it was cold and drizzling. Could rainy days and high humidity cause the light to come on?
Wind Song
January 17th, 2008 at 2:00 pm
802002 Corolla CE Light update.
As planned, I took checked all the fluid levels, and inspected the hoses under the hood. Took the car to Autozone. Ws told that they are not allowed to retrieve the code in CA any more. But could loan the scanner and instruct me to do it myself. The code was P0420, readout says: Catalytic converter low efficiency thrushold. The car has only 95,000 mile on it and I was told that catalytic converters lasts at least 200,000. Now I just don’t know what to do any more.
There is another related problem with the car. I hear high pitched squeaking sounds when the car starts up in the morning but goes away in 30 seconds or so. It is coming from the front left side of the car, may be the belts. Any other ideas?
Anpadh
January 17th, 2008 at 3:38 pm
81You may want to look at the website. Basically, it comes down to checking 5 things: The catalytic converter itself, the VSV (vacuum seal valve), charcoal canister, purge valve, and sensors.
Wind Song
January 18th, 2008 at 10:33 am
82Thanks Anpadh.
Autozone cleared the code for me and it did not come back on. So I’ll just wait and see. BTW. The Corolla owner’s manual does absoutely no help. It only says to take the car to the dealer.
sheltonclan
January 27th, 2008 at 9:39 am
83Well…this morning I have the dreaded CEL “ON” in my 2000 Dodge Durango. this is a car that has roared to life virtually without problem for its entire life. This morning, it wouldn’t start. Took 6 or 7 tries. Then, when it came roaring to life on the 8th try, the little light was on. It is raining like crazy here, and I’m wondering – (being a SoCal gal, where rain is rare and appreciated) – could water be the problem?
This is a “I have no money right now” issue. Honestly, I’d be happy for my local NAPA dealer to check it ($88) if I didn’t have a sneaky suspicion that driving it in the 1″/hr rain home last night was perhaps the cause of my problem….and, of course, if I had the money handy….
vince
February 22nd, 2008 at 3:49 am
84my 1996 mercedez SL320 check engine lights came on after I put gas in my tank. it is lit, but not blinking. I haven’t checked re-capping the gas tank. if that should work, i have isolated the problem. if not, then off to quality tune-up i go for code reading. any help is appreciated first before i go to the shop. thanks.
vince
February 24th, 2008 at 11:18 pm
85I will answer my own question posted above. I recapped my gas tank- no dice. CEL light still on but not blinking. Took car to my body shop mechanic. Mechanic scanned car..printout is “P4011 Secondary outflow intake” message but car is OK to drive. With my mechanic’s help we were able to isolate air pump and visually checked hoses attached to it. Car is left overnight but hopefully it is minor (If i have to replace the air pump hose, cost is only 20 bucks; airpump itself including labor will cost me about 300 dollars.) Still a bargain IMO.
WindSong
February 27th, 2008 at 8:41 pm
86Well, the CEL came back on one week after I had it cleared for free at Autozone. I have been driving with it on. May take another trip to Autozone soon. I amy consider changing the gas cap. But is a loose gas cap is a problem, why do I need to worry about it.
I also came from So Cal. And the light only came on when I am in No. Cal. So may be the rain and the humidity did have something to so about it.
Beth
February 29th, 2008 at 7:06 am
87I have a 2004 Volvo S60, and had a new catalytic converter put in about 3 weeks ago…the next week, it passed emissions. Then it started making noise again. This past weekend, the CHECK ENGINE light came on (came on Saturday night and stayed on all day Sunday…Monday, it was off again) so Monday, I took it back and the guy adjusted one of the brackets or something, which fixed the noise. Tuesday morning, the CHECK ENGINE light came back on. Car seems to be running fine. Last night I stopped at our neighborhood parts store (Advance) and the guy hooked it up to the computer, and said there was nothing wrong with it. But he said he wasn’t allowed to reset the light.
I’m trying to trade the car in this weekend, but I need to get the light turned off! Help!! I’m going to try other auto parts places today…if that doesn’t work, I’ll call the guy who did the catalytic converter, but he’s about 20 miles out of my way…
Any other advice?
Vince
March 13th, 2008 at 2:07 pm
88Hi beth,
I’d see the mechanic who replaced the catalytic converter. The only people who are qualified to work on issues such as these are ASE certified mechanics. Don’t assume we know what precipitates the CEL lights on. These mechanics (the one I know anyway) will hook up their OBD scanner, scan the engine, and will reset the lights for free but if you allow them to do their job, including replacing the suspect parts, that would be your best insurance from keeping the CEL lights on.
BTW, the mechanic I know was more than honest with me…he said automakers put these CEL sensors on the cars they make, not to cause internal problems within the engine but rather as an emission tool for when you need to smog check your car to comply with state DMV agencies. In other words, he said these are unnecessary expenses that we consumers unfortunately have to deal with. You want cleaner air to breathe, then indirectly we pay for it by virtue of when our CEL lights come on. Good luck.
Abou
April 1st, 2008 at 7:13 am
89I have just bought a MAZDA 626 IT, American model, engine YGE22, 190 000 miles on the dashboard. The check engine light always goes on 5 minutes after I start it and goes off only when I stop the engine.
I have read all your advices, but I cannot see what I should do in my own case.
Any help ? Thanks.
David R.
April 3rd, 2008 at 2:40 pm
9099 Neon CE Light went on. Code 31. Evaporator. Dealer evaporated.
Anpadh
April 4th, 2008 at 10:30 am
91Abou — You may want to check your engine oil and other fluids. It could just be an electrical problem too. The light may be on despite there being nothing wrong with the car because bad wiring i activating the switch.
David — My sympathies! On the other hand, at least you know what to fix. And, since it is an American car, fixing it should be relatively cheap.
Abou
April 6th, 2008 at 2:25 am
92Thanks David and Anpadh for these very interesting contributions. I am unfortunately not a mechanic, but I will see this with an electrician as well. I will certainly be back to share with you the results of this trial.
Cheeres.
Nette
April 27th, 2008 at 5:40 pm
93I just bought my 99 Saturn SL2 about a month ago….with the engine light on(dumb right)…well within 3weeks the engine was shot…i took it back to the lot and had to pay $1100 to have the engine replaced…2 days later the engine light was back on…
Johnny
April 29th, 2008 at 1:03 pm
94My story is very similar to some mentioned here. Needed a smog check on my 2000 Honda Accord LX , check engine light has been on for months without any issues, procrastinated on it until I absolutely had to get it turned off for the smog check. I took it to a friend of mine who works at a car repair place. They charged me $20 to diagnose it but couldn’t figure out how to shut it off , just so i could pass my smog. Took it to the dealer where they wanted to charge me $100 just to see why it’s on. Came home all frustrated and did a few google searches and found THIS site.. I read some of the suggestions and figured I’d give some of your ideas a shot. Went out to my garage (first made sure I had my code to set the antitheft code back for the radio) and unhooked my car battery for 3 minutes, hooked it back up and to my amazement the light is now OFF. I can now get my car smogged without the inconvenience of paying hundreds of dollars to have the damn thing shut off. Did it myself and it took less than five minutes. Make sure you have the code for your radio before doing this. Thanks everyone for helping me.
Dan Weber
May 5th, 2008 at 10:22 am
95Disconnecting the battery can help with a stubborn check-engine-light, but the computer will note that it has been disconnected recently. You’ll need to drive around for ~100 miles to give the computer enough history to pass your smog check.
josecarbajal madrid
May 9th, 2008 at 1:20 pm
96Este es unaoteccion de los gobiernos para vender mas carros nuevos
porque si tu ves esa lus no andas agusto y luego tratas de comprar un carro nuevo.
ppero en realidad no pas nada si tienes engene lights on
despreocupate o funele el foco y ya estuvo
check engine reset 01 jeep grand cherokee
June 2nd, 2008 at 3:33 pm
97[...] jeep cherokee and when I did when another person … I changed the battery in my ???01 Lexus …http://www.steve-olson.com/what-to-do-when-your-vehicle-check-engine-light-turns-on-and-the-warranty…Check Engine light *RESET ? – Car Forums and Automotive ChatAutomotive Forums .com Car Chat > jeep [...]
Olddog
June 22nd, 2008 at 5:08 pm
98Disconnecting the ground cable of the car’s battery for a minute or two will usually clear the check engine light. Some cars have an automatic light turned on at certain maintenance intervals. These are triggered by the odometer reading and serve as a not so gentle reminder to have the car serviced.
Make sure that you drive the car right away for about 15 minutes and at least once at highway speeds to see if the light comes back on. If it does then the car probably has a problem.
Allot of National and Multi-State car parts retailers like Pep Boys, AutoZone, Etc. will read the codes on your car for free because they want to sell you the part to repair it with.
Rohit
June 27th, 2008 at 12:14 pm
99I have a 1999 GrandAM Pontiac my car stalled in the middle of the road. Took it to a dealer, he replaced the ignition coil. But since the car has come back from Garage there has been 2 problems
1) Chek Engine light is on
2) Car does not start in the first try
I took the car back to the garage (Auto Select) He says that starter of the car seems to be starting to turn bad and check engine light scan code was P0420 he reset it and said that it could be because of the earlier prblem and I should run the car for 400 to 500 miles before resetting the light again.
Can someone please advice as to how my car suddenly has started giving starter problems since the time it has come from garage and has that anything to do with Check Engine light
Anpadh
June 27th, 2008 at 6:25 pm
100Most likely, you have one of three issues: (1) The spark plugs need to be replaced (2) The fuel injection is injecting too much or too little fuel, at starting. This could happen if the oxygen sensor is not working right. A bad oxy-sensor will also trigger the check-engine light. (3) Your alternator is dying (but not yet dead).
It is also possible that your battery is dying but if your headlights, stereo, etc. are all working fine, then that is extremely unlikely.
Shirley
July 10th, 2008 at 6:46 pm
101I have a 2005 Jeep Rubicon and the CEL came on after filling up with Exxon gas. Took to mechanic and tested it. Code 421(low efficiency bank 2 catalytic converter. He siad that the cat should be warrantied for 8yrs. or 80k miles through the factory. I have 27+k miles. Does anyone know the particulars on this?
Anpadh
July 11th, 2008 at 7:36 am
102It is possible that you are using a lower octane of gas than what is recommended for your car. Possibly, the CEL is warning you to return to the higher octane. I don’t know about your warranty, but what I have heard is that, in general, catalytic converters do not malfunction, even in older cars (cars with over 100,000 miles). See if moving up to a higher octane makes the light go away. I would also suggest that you get an oil change done.
Shirley
July 11th, 2008 at 8:12 am
103I had the oil changed and added “Sea Foam additive” that my mechanic suggested the first the light came on about 3 fill-ups ago. The light came on again 2 days ago after fill-up. The manual calls for regular gas and have not had any trouble until recently with the CEL coming on. I am going to take it to the dealership where I bought it and have them check it and it is due for yearly inspection. If they do not warranty the cat I will have my son-in-law replace the converter for a whole lot less in cost. But if they do warranty it, we will be all the more better off, but cost wise and labor too. Thanks for your info.
Check Engine Warning Light: Free Diagnostic Services | Money Saving Pro
July 28th, 2008 at 12:03 am
104[...] post by Steve Olson, “What To Do When Your Check Engine Light Turns On and the Warranty has Expired”, generated some great comments that I recommend you read. Rick commented in defense of resetting [...]
SonyD
August 10th, 2008 at 5:33 pm
105HI
I HAVE A 2005 NISSAN PATHFINDER. AFTER I REPLACE THE BATTERY I NOTICE THAT THE DTE(DISTANCE TO EMPTY) IS NO LONGER ACURATE. IT IS HIGHER THAN NORMAL . CAN ANY ONE HAVE AN IDEA OR ADVISE ME WHAT TO DO.
THANKS
Anpadh
August 12th, 2008 at 7:54 am
106It seems to me that your gauge is electric, not a dipstick that goes directly into your gas-tank. IF that is the case, then, possibly, at the time of replacing your battery, the connection between the battery and the gaguge may have become loose or even intermittent, leading to a wrong reading on the gas-tank. This is just a guess but any decent mechanic should be able to tell in about 2 seconds if that is truly the case.
Bob
August 14th, 2008 at 7:58 pm
107I recently had the check engine light on my 95 Nissan 200 come on , infact it had become an on going thing . However this time the light remained on for several months . As the car was due for smog I knew I would have to fix this problem . I searched the web and took the advice of a consumer . I disconnected the positive lead of the battery ….waited about 10 mins and reconnected . The light remained on for the next trip of about 3 miles , however when I got back in the car to come home the light was off . I immediately drove to the smog station and it passed with flying colours !!!!!!!!
Don’t let the garages rip you off , at least try this first..it worked for me !!!!
Guinness
August 18th, 2008 at 4:24 pm
108I had a check engine light on.. and I did take it to Autozone and they said it would be my oxygen sensor. But I don’t know if something else is causing the oxygen sensor go bad, or should I get it diagonsed by a profressional
choob
August 21st, 2008 at 8:38 am
109In response to John and PJN,
When using John’s instructions, my digital odometer give a numeric readout of the error codes..
Thanks ALOT John!!
TumbleWeed
September 9th, 2008 at 9:58 pm
110I just checked with my local Auto Zone, and was told that they were not allowed to do the free CE check anymore.
This might just apply to California as when I asked why, he said he thought there was some law that had been passed.
I guess someone was losing money somewhere and they just had to mess it up for everyone else.
TW
Bridgette
November 1st, 2008 at 2:48 pm
111Hi I have a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta with a 2.0 Engine. The check Engine light came on late last year….but after many tune ups, many mechanics found nothing wrong with the car. I got a reading from an Emissions Test that said my system was too lean….I’ve run an Octane Boost and am currently attempting to run a full tank of 93 Premium BP gas through my engine. The light is still on. Why needs to be done at this point. What has usually been the case for 2001 VW Jettas?
Rob
November 13th, 2008 at 3:25 pm
112I found out you can reset the check engine light by pulling out the efi fuse then replacing it !!! In my case though the light came back on so there must be something bad going on !! Might save you a couple of bucks if it was just your fuel cap !!
Susan
November 14th, 2008 at 7:55 pm
113I have been driving my daughter’s 2001 Jetta for the last 7 months. Like everyone else, all of a sudden the check engine light came on and I have had it looked at by a few places (other than the dealership) and they can’t find anything wrong. The problem is that now the car needs to be inspected and it won’t pass in NY with the light on… I wish just putting a piece of black tape over it would make it all better! LOL The guy actually did me a favor and reset it for me – rather than charging me, failing me and making me come back again anyway. He said to drive it for a while (I have till the end of November) and then come back and he will pass me as long as the light doesn’t come back on. It stayed out most of the day… but after I got the tank filled and turned it off, it came back on again later that day. I guess I am going to be forced to go to the dealership to get this taken care of… and while I agree with both sides about “dealerships” I can say that 2 tires that I could have gotten somewhere else for less than $100 bucks each ended up costing me over $300 total – but that is my own fault! ANY AND ALL SUGGESTIONS MUCH APPRECIATED!!!
Anpadh
November 16th, 2008 at 5:34 am
114Since you asked for any and all suggestions, here are some that have worked:
1. Turn your gas-tank cap until it clicks 3 times. If you don’t have a cap, buy one.
2. Disconnect and reconnect your battery.
3. Buy high-octane gas and fill your tank with it for 5 consecutive tanks.
4. Replace all of your fuses.
5. Get a tune-up.
6. Add oil and/or get an oil-change.
6. Change your air-filter.
Basically, the light comes on for one of two reasons: A. There is a real problem with the engine. B. There is some type of minor malfunction that has something remotely to do with the engine. If you have a problem in category A, your car will stop driving in a day or two. In category B are electrical problems, fuel problems, and “safety” issues (such as the cap to the gas tank being loose or missing). Electrical problems can be caused by loose (or faulty) wiring/connections, a stuck switch, bad alternator, or bad battery. Fuel problems can be caused by someone maliciously dumping bad stuff into your fuel tank, buying fuel from an “ultra-cheap” gas station, buying low-octane fuel, bad fuel injection, and bad spark plugs. Safety issues include, mostly, being low on any or all fluids — engine oil, transmission fluid, power-steering fluid, engine coolant, etc.
If you follow all of the 6 suggestions mentioned above, there is a pretty good chance that you will, most likely, eliminate the problem together. And if you don’t, you will almost surely pin-point the cause of it, without spending a fortune.
Z
December 30th, 2008 at 12:52 am
115This is the Loooongest list about Engine Light!!! My 2001 CLK320 started having the light coming on several months ago…I made about 6 or 7 trips to a repair shop…everytime, they used one of the possible causes as being the problem and about couple of thousands dollars later, I finally gave up and decided to replace the car. None of cleaning parts, replacing parts…Oxygen Sensor, Vaccum Leak, so and so worked. The light kept coming back aggrevating me.
Guess what, the brand new 2008 MB C300 Sport that I bought back in June (only about 3000 miles on it) is having the same problems. In addition to the Engine Light issue, the window doesn’t shut correctly!!!
I do have the OBD code reader and all that showed me was every single possible cause that there may be there and it doesn’t even clear the light…for some reason it thinks it’s erased the code, but the light is still shining!!!
There is no straight answer to what the light is implying with or without code reader. Even the mechanics I’ve used couldn’t tell for sure. They just kept trying different options to see if any worked!!!
So far I’ve read through LOTS of posts on all sorts of sites and none has given me a practical or easy solution. I just need to take it back in while there is warranty on it and have the dealer to check on it….I just HATE the inconvenience of taking it in…quite a PAIN and I wish at least they knew what the heck they were doing!!! At least 9 trips total (between the old car and the new) on the window issue and no resolution :-/
RENEYRO TERC
December 30th, 2008 at 6:05 pm
116(96-99) TOYOTA CAMRY- THIS IS REAL . DONT SPEND MONEY ON ANY CODE READER YOU WILL JUST WAIST YOUR MONEY. IN THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT NEXT TO THE BATTERY . THERE IS A BLACK COVER . THE FUSE BOX. IN THE FUSE BOX ON THE LEFT SIDE FUSE BOX THERE IS A 15 AMP BLUE FUSE IN THE MIDLE OF THE FIRST LEFT SIDE (INGINE OFF REMOVE FOR ONE MINUTE THEN REPLACE) THEN TURN ENGINE ON AND NO MORE (CHECK ENGINE)ENJOY YOUR CAR.
joel
January 5th, 2009 at 12:08 pm
117converter stopped up, all sensors going crazy, check engine light on.
replaced converter all is ok
Jun
January 27th, 2009 at 3:56 pm
118i owned 1999 Honda LX and check engine light is on. i tried reading all of youre help and pls help me with this before i go to a shop and hopefully can do it myself. i have to drive my son to his doctors appointment regulary and really in tight budget. any of you guys advice me what to do thanks. BTW i bought my car used and have no idea of its history what a dumb nut! hehe.
Richard Lee
April 7th, 2009 at 9:08 am
119The advice of Comment #10 is absolutely valuable.
The malfunction engine light is on for on my Camry 2003, mileage is 56000.
I replaced gasket on fuel cap, light stays on.
Today, after I cleaned the end of fuel hose and I pulled two fuses marked EFI for a few minutes, restarted the engine, the light went off.
This avoid at least $60 diagnose fee per dealer.
If the light is on again, I will go to Autozone to get the problem code, then go to the dealer.
Wind
April 8th, 2009 at 6:43 pm
120For CA drivers:
Autozone no longer pull the code for you or let you borrow the scanner. You have to buy one. I was told that it is a new state regulation. I live in the SF Bay Area.
I was battling with the CE light for over almost two years. Had it cleared, came back on, etc. Finally, I bought a scanner for $60, had the code pulled. It had something to do with low catelytic converter efficiency. Cleared the light. I changed the oil, air filter, checked all tire pressures, filled it up with premium gasoline. Drove for 200 miles and 40 cycles. Then drove 15 miles to the smog station. Passed smog, and light never came back on. Don’t know what did it.
Raj
June 11th, 2009 at 11:07 pm
121I tried the Fuse take out and put back technique as in POST 116, worked like charm. Will report if the check light comes back on.
The Fuel cap trick had worked for a day, that the reason another try.
CAMRY’97 LE 95k miles.
Jamiee
July 30th, 2009 at 10:09 am
122The “SERVICE ENGINE SOON” light came on. I had the vehicle inspected at DMV approximately a week and a half ago where it passed everything including the gas cap inspection. I have now had multiple people tell me that about 1-2 weeks after having their vehicles inspected at DMV this same problem happened. After bringing my car to the dealership to see what the problem is and over $200.00 later, it is the gas cap. I am very upset over this and feel that whatever DMV does to vehicles for their gas cap inspection is causing this to happen which, in turn, is causing New Jersey vehicle owners to incur unnecessary expenses to repair something which is broken due to the NJ DMV Inspection Test. I am going to call the news stations and complain.
anthony
August 27th, 2009 at 5:57 pm
123i heard if you disconnect the battery and turn the key it will reset the check engine light